"live auction with live interaction"

It's a "social marketplace;" an Ebay with the seller doing an IG "livestream" for their "fans" who want to buy their products.

This webapp is not an auction house, and does not hold live auctions.

That said, I highly encourage you to attend some real auctions. They're great environments to meet & network with others, and quite enjoyable even if you're not bidding.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115436)

https://youtu.be/WqBkBxJy470

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112499)

I feel much better. More positive, energetic and confident.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112543)

I imagine your boys are going to be big & tall.

By the time they are in HS you can be the varsity O-line coach at their school and they can play under you. This will make them extremely proud of you and you can spend a lot of time with them.

For whatever reason, libs are moving slowly around HS fb coaches, and you can still scream at the kids and call them lazy faggots and use otherwise blue language. Impose exacting discipline and make them run till they puke, learn accountability and brotherhood.

The boys you coach, raised in every other aspect by a gay matriarchy, will be desperate for a male role model and the fact that its your boys' dad will give your boys a lot of cred with their peers.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112621)

Arent you like 6'4"? Being TALL with a big frame is the only physical requirement. These coaches ride the golf cart everywhere. Everyone will assume you were athletic 20 years ago.

Anyway, you need no creds to start with pee wee. Then you just move up once you learn the actual mechanics of the position and coaching.

As a side note, being around sport all afternoon will also get yourself in better cardio health, almost by osmosis.

But every Oline coach in HS has a giant belly

Im giving you a direct path to something that will be 1) fun and healthy for YOU, 2) will allow you to spend time with your sons, and 3) will make you heroic in their eyes

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112633)

def a tough decision

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112644)

I once wrote a sincere paragraph telling SP exactly how to enjoy the board anonymously lol

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112677)

Try this:

5 days a week you will get up and walk 1-2 miles, however far you are comfortable.

When you get back from your walk, drink 16 ounces of water. Then, nothing else but coffee until 10 am. If you don't like it black, use no more than two tablespoons of milk (no sugar, creamer, or artificial sweetener). if you need caffeine, the first cup can be caffeinated but after that, decaf. Try to go to 10am, then push it to 11am.

When you feel that you need to eat, your first food should be a raw fruit and a raw vegetable. I.e. an apple and some baby carrots.

After that, eat normally until 8 p.m. As you progress, identify simple substitutions and omissions that you can make. For example, grilled chicken sandwiches when you go out to eat. No fries ever. For liquids, work to scale back to water, coffee, and tea only, with juices and diet sodas no more than once a week each. No more than two servings of alcohol a month.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48112655)

Do you track your spend?

I'd be interested in seeing a list of everything you've bought off this website, what you paid (all-in), and the current FMV of each item today.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115315)

You seem to have an on-off love-hate relationship-addition with this websiteapp. Just focusing on the objective data -- item bought, date, price, current FMV -- removes the volatile emotions associated with what you're doing and allows for a more quantifiable evaluation.

Additionally, poasting an inventory of crap-bought-on-a-whim would better allow your peers to provide constructive criticism of your spending habits.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115496)

https://imgur.com/a/SY30y6P

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115400)

Edit: Why are you afraid of a picture of a table being seen by other XOers? Just snip the table out if there's personal/account/&c. info in the full image.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115497)

One thing I did was I bought 25 mystery packs at $375 trying to get a Fugio cent in like VF details, and I didn’t get it. A lot of the packs had crap in them.

There’s other stuff too.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115518)

That's a weird assortment.

I'd look closer at the pillar dollar, as they're widely counterfeited... ditto the AVs.

I'm not a fan of high-grade commons, even with FH/FSB/FBL designations, but that's a personal preference. Stuff that may sound impressive, like a 42-D lincoln in MS67RD, is only worth around $30; there were around a quarter billion of them minted just at Denver.

I do like the daalder, even though they're more modern than my primary field. Note that yours is [recently] cleaned, and buyers know that NGC & PCGS don't use details designations for dip-cleaning prior to early American issues.

I got to around $1k ballpark excluding the AVs (half eagle & sovereign are worth spot, or $4-500 each, if real) and pillar dollar. Have you run the total valuations per Redbook/Krause to see what the market value would be? How did you determine what you were willing to pay for this table?

And everyone knows that "mystery packs" and "unsearched rolls" are scams, dude. You want to use actual auction houses for EAC & colonials, and look up EAC grading for early copper. Also, I assume you mean you spent $15 x25?

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115660)

The Half Dime is in Gem BU and that's worth some bucks. The Shield Nickel is pretty good too. On the table there there is about 0.6 ounces of gold, which at spot is about $1575. Hopefully there would be some premium for the 1893 $5 because it is nice, but I hear what you are saying.

Daalder has cartwheel luster.

The 8 reales are all real. Some have legit chop marks.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115712)

The half eagle is 0.900 fine, or 0.24187 AV, worth around $640.

The sovereign is 0.9170 fine, or 0.2354 AV, worth about $620.

Looking at the Redbook, the 1893 is common and worth base value with only a $50 premium at MS60. Modern gold coin values actually behave quite differently than other metals because of how high the intrinsic value is. You won't see significant premiums over spot until you get to rarities, like the '93-CC (60k minted vs. 1.5M+ for yours) or '92-O (10k minted). Ironically, gold rarities often don't carry the premium of AVs or base metals... those are the ones I'd target if I collected them.

You're right that the half dime is worth a bit -- I see $665 for MS-68. Mintage was 3.5M, so pricing is on "grade" instead of rarity.

Chop marks typically lower valuations, but there are some dedicated collectors of them. 8 reals is a pretty general term -- pillar dollars are a subset that have real demand. How do you know it's real? Most people underestimate the number of fakes out there, and fakes aren't limited to high-dollar coins, either. I actively buy fakes of types I collect ('black cabinet') to learn how to discern methods of counterfeiting & diagnostics.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115834)

Mexico, 1 Centavo, 1912 Mo, in an AU brown with mint luster - paid $2.

Mexico, 5 Centavo, 1915 Mo, in a circulated brown, VF-XF, paid $2.

Shipping was $5.

Tonight I bought 6 Norwegian 10 Kroner coins dated 1964 (0.5787 troy ounces) for $125, with $5 shipping, $130 total. These are bullion coins so have never circulated. Some look great, some looked kind of crappy.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115594)

With the money you're spending, you could be buying some very nice & objectively rare stuff from auction houses throughout the US & Europe. I'm going to be bidding on something dated 1492 that was previously thought to be unique (one locked up in The Hague's cabinet), and I expect it to hammer between €5-10k. There's also a dated 1499 for which 2-3 are known to exist, that will likely hammer at the higher end of that range. And there's a dated 1433 piece with 4-7 known that'll realize around €3-4k.

And that's just in my sub-sub field. Why not pursue a Greek tetradrachm struck in 425 BC? An Anglo-Saxon issue with runic inscriptions? (Outside of coins & monuments, only a few hundred artifacts are known with Anglo-Saxon runes, the majority in museums.) Or a huge 150g 5-taler coin from Germany?

You work hard for your money. Make sure you put in some work when spending it, too.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115751)

But man. Something is wrong with me. I am always reaching. I want to be able to leave my kids something.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115760)

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115197)

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=5598442&forum_id=2/en-en/#48115201)