CR to buy a "starter" boat, like a Sea Ray 190?
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Poast new message in this thread
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Date: June 13th, 2018 3:31 PM Author: Misanthropic dilemma selfie
And stuff like this, which I mentioned below:
https://speedonthewater.net/images/2017_Images/phoenix32xpr/phoenix32xpr-03.jpg
Until the mid-80s, 2-stroke (think dirt bike engines) outboard motors were the pinnacle of performance boat engines, but with the widespread introduction of EFI to marine engines, widespread access to better quality fuel, the ever increasing size of boats, and changing preferences of boaters (the 2-stroke outboards were loud, smokey, stunk, and took up valuable space on the back of the boat where many people prefer for there to be a swim platform), automotive based marine engines took the lead.
However, as Muscadine Wine pointed out, outboard engines, most of which are now 4-stroke engines comparable to automotive engines, still are excellent for saltwater applications and boats that cannot accommodate a large engine bay and/or the weight of a V-8 engine. However, with the switch over to 4-stroke engines, outboard engines do not have the same insane power output relative to size that they once had.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36239205) |
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Date: June 13th, 2018 3:56 PM Author: Misanthropic dilemma selfie
I don't really know my shit. Just enough to be dangerous.
Once I get more time, I really want to buy an old Chris Craft cruiser and spend a couple years completely restoring it. Something like this in pristine condition would be sweet as fuck:
http://www.woodyboater.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Cruiser.jpg
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36239381) |
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Date: June 14th, 2018 1:21 AM Author: Umber Fragrant Piazza
I used to roll around in a little fiberglass 16ft boat (or thereabouts) with a 60s era 100hp Evinrude.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ASxT7D-03pE
This was the motor.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36242740) |
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Date: June 14th, 2018 1:45 AM Author: house-broken new version masturbator
They're also generally not going to be used for the type of speeding that high-end boats used only for hardcore fishing will be. Dudes who fish in tournaments with quad outboards are zooming around from spot to spot and need to have the ability to go out as far as possible within the timeframe the tourney allows. They are pushing their engines way, way harder than your standard boat owner (even someone who fishes offshore more casually), and these boats are built with the expectation that the engines will be blown at some point and can be easily replaced. Cramming 1300+HP in a sport-fishing sized boat (even a relatively large one) is just not something you can do easily with an inboard setup.
In the case of more modest-size boats outboards make sense just because a) they're cheaper, and (more importantly) b) it allows for much more usable space in the boat, which is extremely noticeable for <30 ft boats. That's a big deal as the price rises dramatically for marginal increases in size. If you're putting lots and lots hours on the boat diesels generally hold up better, but you end up with a much smaller boat for the amount of money.
For people with enough money to spend on a bigger boat (over mid-30s or so) they're going to use frequently or drive long distances but won't be PUSHING IT TO THE LIMIT to go 100 miles as quickly as possible to find the fish, inboard diesels are the way to go. Generally a nicer ride, nicer looking boat, cheaper fuel costs offset maintenance since any large boat is going to guzzle. A dude dropping 1M on a hatteras is probably paying someone to do periodic maintenance required of inboards anyway, so he benefits from the durability + cheaper fuel cost for making long or frequent runs. If you're buying a more modest boat and will only be putting hundreds of miles on it a year outboards are the way to go since they're cheaper to work on for small issues (which will come up) and allow you way more usable size for the buck.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36242825) |
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Date: June 13th, 2018 3:21 PM Author: Misanthropic dilemma selfie
If you want to get pedantic, the boat in your first link has a stern drive, which is also referred to as an inboard/outboard.
An inboard has the engine located in the boat, with a long propulsion shaft exiting the bottom of the hull, such as this: https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_aSmgo1DXk/Uf1R87TYaLI/AAAAAAAACco/NEfV-2HSHvQ/s1600/inboard_motors.JPG
This is a good discussion of the differences: http://www.hoffmasters.com/power_stern.html
With all of that said, there is enough fuzziness when it comes to terminology that if some prick tries to correct you for referring to a stern drive boat as an inboard (such as I am doing), you should feel free to tell them to to fuck off.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36239136) |
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Date: June 13th, 2018 10:14 AM Author: charismatic pisswyrm
i wouldnt have any storage costs, bc I would trailer it in a garage where I live, about two miles from a launch on Biscayne Bay.
But yeah, the purchase cost would be sunk.
I just wonder if I ought not be penny-pinching because DEATH will come and fuck it.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36236928) |
Date: June 13th, 2018 10:12 AM Author: godawful menage digit ratio
Best two days in a boat-owners life:
*The day he buys it
*The day he sells it
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36236913) |
Date: June 13th, 2018 1:13 PM Author: Misanthropic dilemma selfie
I am not a fan of the smaller Sea Rays, and I really don't like what Sea Ray has done with their interiors on their larger cruisers.
Formula offers much better bang for your buck in a smaller bowrider, though I believe the smallest boat they make is 24ft.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36238140)
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Date: June 13th, 2018 2:34 PM Author: Ruby chapel boiling water
There's a lot to be said for not buying a used boat. The costs to repair a boat can be excessive, and getting a new boat with an extended warranty on a motor is not an awful idea.
Yea, you can get something decent for 15k instead of 30k, but every time you go to the shop it will cost you 500-2k, and that shit adds up quickly, especially if you have an older motor that's been used in salt water.
I know a guy who though he had a great deal getting a 19 foot seapro for 10k, and he has sunk at least 5k in repairs into it over the last few years.
Really, the true bummer is that you don't know your boat is broken until you turn the key in the water, and that's the end of your day if it doesn't work. Also, if you're in the ocean and you break down, that's a life threatening situation.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36238739) |
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Date: June 13th, 2018 3:51 PM Author: Misanthropic dilemma selfie
One of the big differences between boat engines and motorcycle/car engines is how their throttles operate. With 99% of recreational boats, the throttle is controlled by a lever beside the driver. The operator moves the lever to open up the throttle to the desired level, and the engine continues to run at that level until the throttle is moved. This results in people running engines for extended periods of time at the exact same RPM. This is bad for engines, especially during the break-in period.
The manner in which the throttle operates, in conjunction with other circumstances surrounding the operation of the boat, also leads many people to run their engines wide open for extended periods of time.
Last, again for a multitude of reasons, people tend to overlook scheduled maintenance for boats.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36239341) |
Date: June 13th, 2018 1:33 PM Author: Ruby chapel boiling water
OK, a couple things:
1. Budget 10% of the cost of the boat for gas, repairs/ upkeep & storage. I spent 25k on my boat, and I fill it up about 6 time a year (at 130+ a fill) and spend an average of 1k a year in maintenance and to repair shit (radio, bimini, etc.) My house is on a big lot (lol poors) so I have space to store the boat at my house, so I get a break there.
2. Research where you're going to put your boat. I keep it at my house, but if not, it would be an additional $1200 a year for storage.
3. In terms of what boat to get, figure out what you're going to do. If you fish, it's center console or bust. If you're just going to cruise, dual console or a deck boat might work.
Be even more specific - if you're going to plan to spend time past the beaches in the ocean, you want a deep V. If you're going to stay in the bay, a bay boat or even a skiff works great.
4. Don't be pressured to get a bigger boat with with a bigger motor. I have an 18 ft. with a 115 and it's plenty for what I need and I regularly go 5-10 miles past the beaches. However, I have a deep v center console so it;s built to withstand some rough stuff.
5. Look to see what people tend to own. Around me, 18-22 foot center consoles are what everyone owns, and the reason is the functionality. In Miami, my guess is that deck boats and dual consoles are probably really popular.
6. If you don't over spend, you won't feel obligated to use it every weekend.
7. Don't do a "starter boat." After a season, you'll have most of the knowledge you'll need to do whatever you want, so there's no point in getting a piece of shit and then trying to dump it.
8. If I was going to buy a boat, I would try to get one of these:
http://www.seahuntboats.com/ultra-211.html
http://www.keywestboatsinc.com/boats/show/id/53
http://pioneerboats.com/sportfish202.html
Also, Yamaha motors or nothing.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36238323) |
Date: June 13th, 2018 2:37 PM Author: Soul-stirring abode
zo is retarded as usual
if you know anything about boat repair, or more likely know someone who does or at least a reliable repair place, it's fine. i have several friends who own boats and none of them really think it's a money pit. obviously do ur diligence during purchase and get it carefully checked out by ppl who know what they're doing. also keep in mind mooring/recurring fees
lol @ the poa who said they dont like feeling obligated to use it - shocking that xo poa dont enjoy hanging out on a lake drinking beer with friends and/or family on a nice weekend and don't seek to maximize those opportunities
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36238757) |
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Date: June 14th, 2018 2:32 AM Author: house-broken new version masturbator
lmao really gunning for :D's MFE title
nobody knows jack shit about boat repair besides very mechanically inclined dudes. it isn't like a car where it's trivially easy to learn how to do lots of stuff yourself. when a boat has issues you have to crack open the engine and figure out what the fuck is going on, *and* have a location where you can actually do this.
your friends probably have boats they stuff in a marina and take out on the flat water maybe 6 saturdays or sundays a year. people ITT are talking about actually using your boat on a regular basis, which will get expensive because your boat is going to fucking break at some point if you use it a decent amount. boats aren't cars, there haven't been nearly as dramatic strides in reliability over the decades.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4000970&forum_id=2#36242959) |
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